72 Hours of Mayhem

We arrived in Moscow at 5 in the morning after our 77-hour stint on the train. When the train pulled into Moscow station Jimmy and I practically ran off the train onto the platform and into the semi fresh air! The train station was beautiful it looked like Monet's Arrival of the Normandy Train, Gare Saint-Lazare 1877, which hangs at the Art Institute in Chicago, the sun was just coming up and light could be seen in the sky through the partial glass roof, the steam of the train, the bustling of the people, the selling of pastries, we were totally mesmerized, we had arrived to a familiarity, similar to Europe. We quickly found the metro and were happy to learn that it started running at 5:30 so after a look around the beautiful train station we went to the underground. Unfortunately the train was running on a relaxed European schedule and did not arrive until 6. However we were not to annoyed due to the extreme beauty of the metro station, deep under ground – the deepest metro we had ever been in was decorated with stained glass, ornate lighting, classic and clean wooden benches with iron work on the sides, marble and tile made up the floor and rounded tube ceiling, it was truly a work of art, as was every other metro station we went to throughout Russia, complete with blast doors which made it a totally safe, livable bomb shelter constructed during the war. The trains were also classic, painted green, with attention to detail, and clean too! After boarding what we were pretty sure was the correct train, since all the stops were written in Russian and our guide book as well as the email we received from Hostel World confirming our hostel booking listed the metro stops in a Russian English. We went two stops as we were instructed to do, but when we came up to the street, it was twilight and we were standing next to a McDonalds. We had no idea where to go from there – the email directions made it seem like we were supposed to see the hostel. Jimmy suggested that we walk “this way” so we started to walk but blindly. We came to a large street and decided to hop into a cab. The cab driver drove for quite some time and through many winding back alleyways. Finally we arrived at the Godzillas Hostel, we would have never been able to find the place without the cab drivers help. Now it was time for the payment, throughout our travels, taxi drivers have shown to be overcharging scam artisst and should be taken warily, so when we asked how much it was, in a country we already new was very very expensive, we both cringed with anticipation. “How much you think” the cab driver asked us, “$5” Jimmy replied, “Deal” the cab driver said and Jimmy handed over $5 with a smile. We went inside the hostel and it was by far the cleanest, up to date, nicest hostel we had stayed in so far, and it should have been for what we paid for it, $70 for a double room! Our room was not ready yet so we took showers and stored our bags and went in search of coffee and a new adapter or possibly charger for the laptop that had been fried since day two of the train trip. Moscow was beautiful, everywhere I turned I wanted to take a picture, old apartment buildings, cafes, streetlights, and then we came to the Kremlin! Amazing. We walked and walked in search of an apple store, one side of the Kremlin and then back again, totally lost but loving it. We finally found a store, not the store, and bought a new adapter, we plugged the computer in and it worked! I was really worried it was totally fried, even though Jimmy told me repeatedly that it was not.

After our task was accomplished it was time for coffee, again another search. We finally found the Starbucks we were after on Arbat Street, a wonderful alley-like walking street with artists painting outside and its claim to fame, the Wall of Peace. We entered the Starbucks and walked up to the counter and to our surprise, nothing was in English – we had been traveling for three months and everywhere we have gone, even China had English, but not this Russian Starbucks or any other place in Russia for that matter. Russia was the first country we encountered where English was not spoken; it was a very rare occurrence when we encountered an English speaking person outside the hostels. So I tried to order my vanilla latte and a hot chocolate for Jimmy, the process took about fifteen minutes and finally some how got the point across to the barista, who continually spoke to me in very stern Russian the entire time. After our coffees we walked around some more, visiting the Cathedral of Christ Our Savior and other sites. The next time we looked at our watches it was 5:30, so we started to walk back to the hostel. However it took us quite a long time to get back because we got completely lost – we were so lost and tired and did not want to walk any more. When we got our bearings we found a place for dinner – again no English spoken, but picture menus, which worked just as well. We ordered some serious meat, which we were both really excited about since the food in China was basically rice 24/7. Jimmy teased me as I ate the sausage and sauerkraut that this was the food of my ancestors and he had never seen me so happy – the strange thing is I was totally happy, usually I’m a salad kind of girl but for some strange reason the totally greasy and unhealthy sausage was calling my name. After dinner we went back to the hostel and crashed, since we had been up since 4 in the morning.

The next morning we slept in late and when we woke up we laid in bed for a long time, not wanting to go get on another train, but also really wanting to see St. Petersburg. Finally we got up packed up our bags and checked out. The manager of the hostel wrote down the train type we wanted to take to St. Petersburg in Russian and we went to the train station to buy our tickets. After navigating the metro – which was really not that complicated but for some reason we kept getting lost we finally arrived at what we thought was the train station. After waiting in line for 20 minutes it turned out we were wrong and the correct train station was further down the street. Finally we arrived and again stood in line and when it was our turn we handed the piece of paper to the women behind the counter and she looked at it for some time and then started speaking to us in Russian. She went on and on and we just looked at her, thinking lady I have no idea what you are saying, and she just kept going. Finally she became fed up and put us on some train that was to leave from another station at 10 pm tonight for what we gathered. We went back to the hostel, grabbed some coffee and our bags and then it was time to go find our new train station. We were definitely leaving for the station early but Jimmy gets a little nervous still on the days we travel so we went early. We arrive at the station with plenty of time and read. Then it was time to board yet another over night train. However this train was first class all the way – it looked like a hotel inside, we had the top bunks AGAIN! But I didn’t really care because it was so nice; soon we settled into our cabins and fell asleep. Early in the morning I woke up and the train was stopped, there was no platform outside and I knew that St. Petersburg was the last stop so I didn’t think much of it and fell back asleep. A little while later Jimmy woke me up saying it was 9:30 am and we were suppose to arrive in St. Petersburg at 7. I told him about the stop and he was sure we missed it and we traveling on to some other city. I thought there were to many people still on the train for that to be the case and even though the train schedule was in Russian I knew it said St. Petersburg was the last stop. The hours ticked by and we had no idea what was going on, we talked to the women who shared the cabin with us and through sign language she said we would not be arriving until 6 or 7 pm. The train was apparently running late. There was no dinning car on the train and we did not have any food besides a Toblerone, which was consumed at about noon. Other people on the train were in the same hungry boat and finally the train made a detour to some small town and a large truck pulled up beside it and off loaded tons of food. Then the train attendants spent the next five hours making and delivering food to everyone on the train. We had chicken soup, and chicken with barley and bread. The whole experience was quite an ordeal. Finally when the train arrive there were many people on the platform and many of them ran onto the train to see there loved ones, carrying flowers and gifts, which was nice but seemed a little unusual since many people made the commute from Moscow to St. Petersburg regularly.

We found a cab and bargained the price down and were off to our hostel. We arrived at the Green Light a short time later and checked in by now it was 8:30 pm and we were both tired and a little grumpy. When we checked in, the hostel had lost our reservation and there were no double rooms and then they made us register our visas, which we were told you didn’t have to do if you were only going to be in a city for a couple of days. The registration process cost money and so we were both a little annoyed but then they wanted to charge us some kind of service charge, and then Jimmy got angry and said we were leaving. The women quickly apologized and said it was no longer a problem. After all this we went to our room and turned on our computer. The phone had had no service since we left Moscow and so we were unable to see the 15 messages we had. But we saw the emails. While I was reading – Please Call Home Immediately, Jimmy announced that the train before ours had blown up on it way to St. Petersburg, the train we were originally suppose to be on. I couldn’t believe it, terrorists in Russia, we could have been killed. All in all a very crazy experience. We called our family and told everyone we were alright and went to bed.

The next morning we booked a flight back to Moscow, not wanting to risk any further delays on the train because we had to catch a flight to Dubai the following afternoon. We walked all around St. Petersburg, which was a true European city, churches, palaces, art. We bought a black and white painting to remind us of our time in Russia, as well as a Russian doll. Finally it was back to the hostel to get our bags and off to the airport. The flight was short only 50 minutes and we were back in Moscow, it was 9:30. We got a bus that took us to the train station and then caught an airport express train to the city and then took the metro back to the hostel. By the time I was putting the sheets on our bed in another dorm room it was midnight.

The next morning we were up early again. I did a little work for graduate school, which I have still had a hard time focusing on and then it was off to the airport again for another flight. We arrived, had a quick coffee and then boarded our first Emirates flight ever. Emirates is the nicest airlines we have been on thus far, and I think it would be hard to beat, it is totally amazing. We had a great meal watched two movies and didn’t get any sleep.

We arrived in Dubai at 11 pm and decided to sleep in the airport, which was nice and had lounge chairs that we were able to snag and camp out for the night. Unfortunately my love of coffee got the better of me and I had a latte at 12:30, needless to say I didn’t sleep a wink. Jimmy got some sleep but not me I was up on the computer, reading, walking around and before I knew it the sun was up. Jimmy was refreshed and ready to see Dubai so we left the airport and headed into the city.

First stop, the mall of the Emirates, which was equipped with anything and everything you could ask for. We had yet another coffee; then it was off to see the indoor ski hill, which I thought would be lame, but was actually pretty cool. Then Jimmy got to hold a falcon that a man dressed like a Saudi prince was carrying around the mall. Finally we went to see some hotels, Dubai is kind of like Las Vegas, the hotels are amazing, right on the water and totally first class. By the late afternoon I was totally exhausted, something coffee could not even fix. So we took the train back to the airport and I passed out on the ride back. We made it through security and to our gate where I passed out again.

Then it was time to board another plane, again Emirates. We had another fabulous meal and another movie and then we were in Delhi, time 2:30 in the morning.

It took forever to get through customs, in the hot, un-air-conditioned room. Finally when we made it to baggage claim it took one hour! For our bags to get off loaded yes one hour. Then we walked out to get a taxi. We prepaid for one and walked with our slip out to the curb. A man approached us and said he would take us to the car, Jimmy followed, we were instructed to look for a black and yellow car and a black car with a yellow strip on the roof did pull up and Jimmy got in, I looked at him half asleep and said “are you sure this is the right cab”? He assured me it was and so away we went. Five minutes later we were stopped on the dark side of the road and our “cab driver” said he would be right back! I looked at Jimmy, slightly more alert now and said this is the part were they take us in the back ally and harvest our organs, Jimmy looked a little nervous as well. Our guy came back eventually and we got underway again. After two hours of driving “trying” to find our hotel and stopping at a travel agency that could find us a new hotel, Jimmy called our hotel for directions. Five minutes later we arrived at Tara Palace. Yet another scam to top off a very long 72 hours, it was now 7 in the morning. We checked in and the hotel informed us that we made our reservations for December 2, 2010! But they had a room for us. We went upstairs and crashed not waking up until 4:30 in the afternoon.

When we woke up I had terrible stomach cramps, I was sure that I had contracted malaria in my short time here in India. Jimmy was not convinced, he said I needed water and more sleep, so he went to get water and I slept pretty much until the next morning. When we woke up, we finally showered and decided to see India. We went downstairs and arranged everything for the next two weeks, trains, planes and automobiles. After everything was scheduled we visited the Red Fort and the cities largest mosque that was very near our hotel. Then we came back to the hotel and took an arranged car tour of the city. It was so nice to have someone drive us from place to place, the simplicity of the day was helpful, because we were experiencing a little bit of culture shock with the large amount of people, poverty and trash everywhere. Our driver even took us to dinner and waited for us. After dinner we went back to the hotel and were able to Skype with the family for a while. Everyone was good and we were glad were could talk. Finally it was off to bed because we had to get up early for another car ride – to Jaipur, the pink city.

Russian Soldier Forces

Between Irkutsk and Moscow we went through a half dozen or so roommates in our four berth train compartment. First we had a pleasant elderly couple headed to there winter home in the middle of no where Siberia – it seems people would want to visit a nice warm beach in the winter but not this couple. They were with us for the first full twenty hours or so. Then after they left we had two young girls join us. They were only on for about eight hours or so and did not speak the slightest little word of English. After they left we got two new men and neither of them spoke any English at all but they had lots of tasty foods, which they willfully shared with us. This was very appreciated since we were now into about fifty hours on the train and had exhausted our food supplies and the dining car left a little to be desired. At last when these two men go off we were left with a good six to eight hours of privacy before they next group of people got on.

So there we were sitting down to dinner on our first night of the 77-hour stretch of train between Irkutsk and we were surrounding by a bunch of young men headed into Moscow for some military training after spending the last few months hunkered down in a Russian base in the middle of Siberia. They were ready to party and little did we know how much they wanted to party. So we started talking to these guys and working our way through a conversation of horribly broken English, but it was fun and the beers kept coming. And these weren’t just any beers they were 6% 24-ounce cans of intense Russian beer. So after about six of these we were having a lot of fun and the war propaganda movies were put on the TV and I was told that I was now a Russian soldier too. One of them then proceeded to take his shirt off and trade it with mine. So after eight beers or so I stumbled back to our cabin to find my beautiful Mary awake and reading and in no mood to deal with my diluted state of wellbeing.

Now a hangover is never a fun thing but usually a few Advil and a couple of glasses of water later you are ready for your day. Not this time – this time we were on a train for another full 48 hours and the train was going over a particularly bumpy section of track for a few thousand miles. This left the upset stomach and headache plenty of room to grow only worse as the day past.

So at last I learned my lesson and this is a lesson everyone needs to follow when riding on the Trans Siberian and drinking with the Russian Army – They have been in a bunker for the past winter doing nothing but shooting their AK-47 and drinking beer. Do not try and keep up with them and certainly do not except the last beer.

Trans Siberian Train - Ulaanbaatar Mongolia and Irkutsk Russia

The Trans Siberian is the world’s longest set of trains tapping in at … kilometers and reaching from Beijing to St. Petersburg and even farther with a few connecting trains you can make your way virtually anywhere in Asia and Europe. We began our little adventure in Beijing after a few splendid days in China’s capital.

Our first stop along the way was Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. Now this is the world’s second most ugly city only after Chengdu. We stepped off the train after 22 hours to find ourselves in a terribly chilly -29 degrees Celsius. Now back home it gets that cold regularly but back home you get in your toasty warm car and drive wherever you need to go. And most people do that in Ulaanbaatar also, but not us we walked all around the city. Once you got out of the city though and into the Ger town (similar to Alaskan yurts) you get to truly appreciate the splendid scenery of the rolling hills and snow capped peaks. Our short stay in Ulaanbaatar was spent viewing a ceremony at the local monastery, walking around for brief moments in the frigid cold, and enjoying good coffee at Café Amsterdam. After just two days we were ready to move on.

We boarded the train again and with us came the entire merchant army of Mongolia with jeans and boots and coats and socks galore ready to be sold across the border in Russia. Now we were told to be careful and what not on the train but we had no idea it would be like this. There were people everywhere, stuffing clothes into the pillowcases. Tapping jeans around their calves under their pants. One women had a dozen socks squeezed down her shirt.

As we exited the car Mr. Kim, our hostels proprietor, told us for the third time “do not let anyone try to give you anything or have you hold anything or let them even put anything on your bed, I’m very serious, I’m very worried about you!” “Ok, Ok” Jimmy told him “thank you for the advice.” We walked across the street and into the train depot out of the cold. Mr. Kim’s friend got us our train tickets for a “good price” $80 US but when he gave them to us he regretted to inform us only the top bunks were the only seats left available – however he assured us that these were his personal favorite and were really “better” – better my ass I thought and quickly told Jimmy we decided that if our train was as empty as the last, then we would just move cabins – we would even pay if we had to. The train station however was packed; little did we know how packed. I quickly went to the bathroom and by the time I was back the station had cleared out. The train was not due to leave for 45 minutes, but people were quickly boarded so we followed suit. Once on board we found our cabin, I bunks 2 and 4. And someone had already been in there with boxes covering the beds. We put our packs away in the compartment above the bunks and while Jimmy was trying to arrange them, a woman came in with probably twenty pairs of jeans – unpacking some of them stuffing them into the bed pillows. As she did this she smiled at us – as we sat nervously facing her and her smuggling ways. A man poked his head in and he was carrying ten pairs of giant leather fur lined boots stamped with “Made in Mongolia” across the sole. The woman motioned to our beds and the man quickly began to pile the boots atop of our bunks. We quickly jumped to our feet trying to explain that we needed to sleep up there and the boots would have to find another home. More and more boots kept coming but luckily they were now going under the seats instead of on our beds. Three people were now in the room arranging the boots, one man had a notebook and was keeping inventory. More jeans came, socks, facemasks – outside our cabin blankets moved by and vests and purses, even the train attendants were storing goods in their rooms. Hiding anything they could. The man in our room seemed to be one of the leaders of this whole operation. Once the stuff in our cabin was mostly organized he closed and locked the door and stripped down and changed into what we were told was the Trans-Siberian uniform as mentioned in The Lonely Planet – The Adidas tracksuit. After he changed his phone rang which sounded like an orgasming woman and had what seemed like short business call. Then the door opened back up and circus began again! At first I was a little worried especially after watching the movie “Trans-Siberian,” but there seems to be some rhythm and normalcy imbedded in the madness.

Around 7:30 pm the women who had been stuffing jeans into our pillow cases got off the train at one of the stops and then it was just the man in the room with us, and periodically his friends giving him more items to store. Around 8:30 the man came into the room and tried to communicate with us that this women standing behind him in the doorway needed to hide. He put his two pointer fingers over his head to look like horns and gave a very menacing look as the women climbed but on the bunk next to Jimmy and moved our bags, which were stored in the overhead compartment, and then wiggled her way behind them. She was not a small woman mind you and I will never forget her frantically trying to get her very large rear end up into the compartment. The train attendant came around to check tickets and as I handed my ticket over our large stow aways eyes peered out from behind our packs and smiled. After the attendant was gone the woman climbed down and started helping arrange things just like the woman before her, except this women stored socks in her bra, she wore pants she was going to sell as well as boots and then she taped more pants to her legs underneath the jeans she was already wearing. I went to the bathroom a short while later and every Mongolian person on the train was wearing the same outfit, leather boots, jeans and a sweater, I didn’t know whom they thought they were fooling. As we pulled into the Russian boarder station the women looked at me and asked me to put jeans in my bag – saying “No problem, No problem” – I said “No thank you, No thank you” with a smile. She quickly stuffed the jeans under the bedding as the customs official slid open the door. The official looked around going to far as to pull open the roof of the overhead compartment and after what seemed like a very long time we all passed over our documentation. Our Mongolian guests declared nothing and after taking down our information the official moved on to the next cabin. There was a ceremonious high five and then everyone relaxed. It took about three hours to get across the boarder and once the train moved on into Russia the traders began giving all the merchandise back to the original owner, Jimmy and I fell asleep before the job was done. We woke up the next morning to the smell of sausage, cheese and beer – our Mongolian friends were passed out but it looked like they had had a feast before going to bed at who knows what hour. The train stopped a couple of times before we reached our destination of Irkutsk and whenever we pulled into a station the merchants would get off the train and try to sell their goods to those on the platform. We arrived in Irkutsk early in the afternoon, another couple from Mr. Kim’s hostel was also going to be staying in Irkutsk at the same hostel we were. We were all met by an employee of the hostel and transported by trolley car to the hostel. We arrived to a very communist looking apartment block and climbed three flights of stairs upon arriving to an old apartment that had been converted into a hostel with two large bedrooms, kitchen and one bathroom. That night we all went out to dinner – at a nice pub called the London Bar. The couple we were with, Greame and Stephanie were from the UK and had been teaching in Korea for the last year – they were so excited to be going home and to be able to finally find a proper pub. After dinner we walked home in the snow, Irkutsk was a beautiful little city and the snow made it even more enchanting – Jimmy made a snow angel. The next day we went with Greame and Stephanie to Lake Baikal, where we had lunch and walked around. Then we went back to Irkutsk and collected our bags and Jimmy and I were off to the train station once again. This time we embarked on our longest leg to the journey thus far – 77 hours straight on the train!

Trans Siberian Beijing – Ulaanbaatar

It is currently 10:00 pm November 17, 2009. Jimmy and I are in berth 5 of train compartment II of train car 3 of a train headed north to Ulaanbaatar Mongolia. We boarded this train at 7:15 am and embarked on our journey a half hour later. Our journey within a journey – our journey throughout China, which lasted longer, than expected, is over – we traveled much of the county and saw both big cities and rural towns, nature and pollution. We also spent time with my mom and John. I miss mom, Martha and Mags right now – in the next compartment over, number II, a family of six has settled themselves in the four-berth cabin and the children are laughing – loud! They sounds so full of life and happiness, other than that the train car is mostly quiet, except for the noise coming from outside, as they are changing the wheels of our train over to the Mongolian size gauge. A process that occurs every Tuesday and Wednesday and is suppose to “protect” the country from foreign invaders, silly now when places could be taken out in minutes from the air. Just now Jimmy talks about resources being devoted towards the “war on terror” contributing to the financial crisis as stated in the book In the Fed We Trust which he has been reading for the last couple of hours on the iPhone. Crazy world we live in sometimes. The train is empty – the family of six and the woman in our cabin and that is it. Our roommate is about 40-45 I would say, has a large what I would assume to be Mongolian face – no eyebrows only tattoos, black curly hair and she was dressed in all black, leather boots, black pants, black fur coat and when we entered the car she dominated the space with her very large figure. She quickly changed into her “train attire,” baby blue thermal pants and top, green capri stretch pants, a red sweater and a large wool scarf rapped around her stomach. Quickly after we got on board we fell asleep and slept until around noon – with occasional bathroom breaks for me – my lame coffee made me have to pee. The western toilet was a little scary looking at first, it looked dirty but it was just really really old. Our roommate fell asleep to – it was early and freezing in the train, everyone was immediately under the covers, where were of little help. Jimmy and I had to cuddle close to stay warm. But eventually we had to move around – we readjusted ourselves and made some hot tea. We then decided to watch a TV show we downloaded in preparation for the trip – One Tree Hill. After two episodes it was time to go exploring. We walked through a cabin that looked like our but a little nicer and then! Through two cabin cars that were amazing – dark wood paneling, only two beds in each, with a chair, totally first class. Then we came to the dining car, which was also nicer than the others we had had in China. After a coke and a Heineken we ventured back to our cabin for some lunch from the snacks we brought for our ride – we had aunts on a log, gold fish, and some weak banana bread – nothing like Kitty’s back home – we love and miss you! After lunch we played cards, Spades, Jimmy won, he actually is pretty good and then reading and a little nap. Oh ya and by the way our roommate slept this whole time. When I woke up it was 5:15 pm – our roommate was up and staring at Jimmy like a juicy steak. I picked up the kindle and began to read deciding not to wake Jimmy and frighten him and I guess let our roommate continue her feast she looked so happy. The attendant brought customs forms, which we filled out when Jimmy woke up and then around 7 we went back to the dinning car for dinner. Our last meal in China was chicken, green peppers and onions sautéed in a sauce that tasted like nothing more that slat, and a small bowl of rice. After dinner we played several games of cards which Jimmy won at spades again and I won at gin, then we were asked to leave because they were “closing” which in China means its time for the crew to party. We went back to our cabin and decided to watch one of our movies “Just Married” about a couple on their honeymoon and the struggles they go through traveling together – they only new each other a year before they got married, even though Jimmy and I have been together for eight years now, some things about traveling can put a toll on the relationship – Jimmy’s good to me and knows that look I give him that’s its to dirty and to make sure he wears his shoes everywhere and at all times J. Halfway through the movie we stopped and the customs officials came on board and got our passports – then they took them – we weren’t to worried until the train stated to move again and we were passport less – the train attendants assured us the officials were on board with us – probably drinking in the dinning car – anyway we went a short distance to the place where they change the wheels and here we are. Shortly there after we got our passports back, got off the train and bought some water and then it was back on to go back to sleep. We got to Ulaanbaatar the next day in the afternoon and it was -15 outside! We were really in Mongolia.

Pictures from China

Beijing

We arrived in Beijing after a safe smooth flight, and there was snow on the ground. I have to say it wasn’t as beautiful as landing at the Anchorage airport and looking out the window and seeing the mountains and trees covered with thick snow – but it was a close second, a new place, and a new adventure. We arrived late but grabbed a Starbucks on our way to the taxi line, happy to be back in a big, clean, civilized city. Jimmy and I have been spoiled and become a little soft going to school in Chicago, even though we can hack it in the woods, there is something totally comfortable about a big modern city. We took a cab to the Happy Dragon Hostel and check in to a four-person dorm. In the morning we were up and showed and on our way to the International Hotel Beijing to buy our train tickets for the Tran Siberian. We were told the train did not leave until Tuesday for Ulaanbaatar and it was only Thursday. We spent the weekend doing tourist stuff like going to the Forbidden City, the home of the Chinese Emperors, visiting Tiananmen Square, seeing the tomb of Mao, and the two story KFC that is directly diagonal his burial spot. We also visited the great wall, hiking up and then tobogganing down. The rest of our time was spent walking around the different Hulongs or Chinese neighborhoods that look very much like what I thought China would look like, gray blue connected traditional homes with tiled roofs and completely walled. We also spent a good amount of time downloading books and movies to the computer and the kindle to make sure be were prepared for our 90+-hour train ride that we had ahead of us. In addition we saw the movie 2012, which features China and the Chinese, seemed to love it, lots of ooing and awing in the theater. The night before our train, which was to leave a 7 am the next day we went to the store an bought some food – it was a great place, Chinas version of Whole foods and we were able to find some cheese, be it laughing cow spreadable cheese, but it was great, because cheese is not that popular in China and I was having a total craving. I was done with Chinese food and wondering why Jimmy and I did not just go to Italy for the year and have cheese and wine all day. The next morning we were up early and boarded the train with plenty of time to spare. The next leg of our trip was about to start!

Tibet & Mount Everest Base Camp

We spent the sent 10 days visiting the Potala Palace in Lhasa, the home of the Dali Lama, before he was forced out of Tibet by the Chinese in 1959, enjoying the Barkhor or Tibetan district of Lhasa, which is being populated more and more by Chinese and drinking coffee at the summit café, an aspiring franchise that makes the best coffee I had in Tibet as well as eating lots and lots of Yak, a local staple in the region. In Lhasa we were privileged to be blessed by a monk while a Buddha painting ceremony was going on, at the Jokhang monastery. We also traveled west to the town on Shigatse on our way to and from Mt. Everest base camp, where we spent on night at the Rongbuk Monastery after drive 5 hours on a dirt, gravel road up mountains to 17,000 ft. After playing a quick but exhausting game of football we enjoyed the scenery for longer than most our young guide informed us. Then back again passing all the military checkpoints we passes through to get to Everest.

Our tour guides were definitely doing their first solo tour as the driver spoke no English and the guide’s English left something to be desired. They did try their best though and when finally surrendered to Kathy’s inquisitive traveler foray of questions on the history of every monastery across Tibet; they bought her a CD full of traditional Tibetan love songs to listen to.

Militarization

We hit Tibet and realized it wasn’t some Buddhist village, but rather a metropolis thriving with Chinese settlers and armed Chinese military at every corner to quell any protests or riots. The Tibetans truly live as an oppressed people in an occupied nation under the rule of a foreign government – on a daily basis they seem to be treated fairly and with respect, even young children mock the army by saluting them as the laugh and play. Thus I really blame the Dali Lama and the Tibetans for not fighting up against their oppressor and winning independence. Nations all of the world have fought hard for their independence and won it, why don’t the Tibetans do the same and stop complaining. Why did the Dali Lama not just stay with his people and fight – instead he ran and hid – leaving his countrymen to face the invaders without their leader. Furthermore the whole religion seems to exploit the impoverished just like every other religion around the world. The Stuphas and Monasteries are made of gold and decorated with silks, while the people live in poverty and wear nothing be rags. All of this while the Dali Lama himself travels the world in luxury. Until the Tibetans are prepared to fight for their own independence and sovereignty they rest of the world has no place pitying them. But when they are ready to take back their nations I believe all the worlds powers should help them take back what is rightfully theirs.

On our return back to Lhasa we wanted to delay our impending separation, therefore mom and I decided we would all go back to Chengdu for one last day to see the famous Chinese panda reserve that is located there. Our flight leaving Lhasa was a bit of an experience, first we waited to buy the tickets at the airport and when we got there the ticket agent only would take cash, so then everyone had to run to the ATM and withdraw there maxim limit, then when we finally got the tickets the plan was delayed 5 hours and we were kind of stuck at the airport because it was located an hour outside of Lhasa. Then once on the plane we were not sitting together and we had one of the worst turbulence experiences of my life – I was sure we were going to die. My face must have shown it and it made the man sitting next to me jump out of his seat and grab Jimmy who was seated across the aisle and push him into the seat next to me, which I was very very grateful for. After we landed I was seriously considering taking the train to Beijing, but finally opted for another airplane, knowing in a weeks time I would start my long journey on the Tran Siberian. Chengdu’s only saving grace may be the panda reserve, which is quite impressive. Planned like a zoo mixed with a public park full of ponds and lakes with cafes you can view the pandas at all ages in a habitat closely resembling their original one. You must question though how anyone could think that a smoggy city would be an ideal location to house pandas, an endangered species, and get them to procreate and improve their population size.

Finally All in all, however we simply spent too much time in Chengdu, and were happy to leave but sad to say goodbye to mom and John.